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Category Archives: Food

Fin De Semana! 7-10-15

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I’m a finalist to represent El Paso on the Texas Taco Council. Super excited.

Speaking of El Paso, we had a UFO sighting.

On the heels (pun intended) of his talk about Mexico, Donald Trump gets an invitation to learn more about the border.

What I’m Listening To

The new Turnpike Troubadours song, which is a sneak preview of the self-titled album they’ve got coming in September. Find it here. I like the Troubadours because they’ve got an accessible, catchy, and essentially good-natured take on country. This song is no different and I’m really hoping this next album blows up and makes them huge(r). Listen here.

What I’m Drinking

A guest brought a bottle of this to our 4th of July cookout. I don’t normally like IPAs but damned if this one wasn’t smooth and not so hoppy it burned all your taste buds off. I guess they’re only for the 4th, so they might be hard to come by. Since the crisp, clear freshness of the beer is what made it so drinkable, it might be worth waiting until next 4th to pick up a new one. I know I’ll be keeping an eye out.

Red Enchiladas: The Best Way To Destroy Your Kitchen

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You’ve probably seen dried red chiles. Walmart here sells them by the pound out of a big bin in the produce section. They look like this:

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If you’ve ever wondered what to do with them, today is your lucky day. We’re going to make enchiladas. We’ll probably also make a fine mess in your kitchen. It’s gonna be totally worth it.

Some people have recipes for chiles where you use combinations of different chiles to create a sauce. Living this close to New Mexico we have access to some spectacular chile so I always go all red Hatch chile. Don’t let me stop your from experimenting but there’s something about New Mexico red chile that is indescribable. It’s not just the heat, but the earthy richness and the floral scent. So…yeah. Let’s do this.

I used about a dozen individual chiles. Give them a good rinse first because it’s not unusual for them to be a little dusty from the field. I cut the stems off mine, dumped most of the seeds out (a few seeds in your food is ok, it gives your dish a little life they say) and chopped them in to a few pieces. I like to toast them in a dry skillet for a bit, until they just start to get fragrant, after I rinse them. You can skip if you want but you’ll miss out on the really deep, complex flavor of red chile. Once toasted dump them, along with a roughly chopped yellow onion, a couple of cloves of garlic, a tablespoon of oregano and a tablespoon of cumin (easy on the cumin if you’re not sure) in to six cups of water and bring it up to boil. Once it hits a full rolling boil, turn the heat down to a simmer and put the lid on the pot for about half an hour. You want everything to get good and soft. While everything is boiling preheat your oven to 350.

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Once everything is softened up, you’ll scoop the solids (chiles and all) into a blender and add just enough of the liquid to it to make sure in blends. You’ll probably have to do this in batches. Blend until you have a thick liquid. Pour the blended chile into a sieve over a second pot and work the chile pulp around until you’ve got a smooth, deep red liquid. Again, you’ll probably have to do this in batches, adding the chile and onion solids to the blender, adding the water they were boiled in, blending and sieving until you’ve got it all done. What you should wind up with are these:

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Thats the skins and seeds of my chiles on the left, hovering above my trash can and the resulting sauce on the right. You’ve just made red chile sauce. You can stop here if you want.

Red chile sauce is great for lots of things. It can be frozen and saved for later or you can home can it in a mason jar. The sauce is great for making pozole, tamales, chilaquiles, chile colorado, or even just bathing a burrito in.

Now is the REALLY messy part. You’re going to want to set up a little assembly line here with corn tortillas, a pan to fry them in, your sauce, your filling, and the pan you’ll bake them in. Put about two fingers of vegetable oil in a skillet. This is the trickiest part. You’re going to need to fry a corn tortilla (DO NOT USE A FLOUR TORTILLA FOR THIS). Getting the temp right is hard. If it’s too low, the tortilla soaks up all the oil, gets soggy and will fall apart. Too hot and you’ll smoke up your kitchen or fry the tortilla solid. Ideally you want the oil just a little under the smoke point so that it only takes a few seconds on each side to fry your tortilla.

Take a corn tortilla out of the package, dunk it in the sauce (the sauce doesn’t need to be heated for this), enough to coat both sides. There’s two schools of thought about the order. Some people fry first, then sauce. I’ve always heard sauce first, then fry because it cooks the chile into the tortilla. I’m starting to get doubtful about this. I think you season your oil more than anything else. I’m going to experiment with frying first next time. Buy more tortillas than you need, you’re going to lose a bunch. Just solemnly nod at these lost tortillas and move on. They got ruined in service to something delicious.

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Then, take your sauced up tortilla and fry it in the oil, flipping once and removing it. You want the tortilla to form bubbles and puff up a little on each side. Once both sides are fried, move it to you pan. Dump some white cheese in that dude and roll it up, placing it seam side down. Your hands are going to be covered in red chile. It stains easily and doesn’t wash out so much as gets bleached out by the sun, so be careful with your clothes. You’re kitchen is going to be several shades of New Mexico red and grease splattered. This is part of the process. Enjoy it, because it pays richly.

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I’ve sauced up the bottom of the pan a little. This is optional and doesn’t make much difference I don’t think.  White cheese vs. yellow cheese is kind of a personal preference. I’m ride or die for white cheese, personally. I usually go with either muenster (a local favorite) or a soft Mexican cheese like queso blanco. You’ve got a lot of control over fillings. I usually stick to either cheese or ground beef. If you want to go ground beef, fry up some lean ground beef, add just enough red sauce to make it bind and shovel in queso blanco until you get a thick paste. Once you’ve got all your enchiladas rolled and laid down all Kentucky, pour the remaining sauce over the top and kinda half heartedly move it around to coat everything with a spoon. You can top the enchiladas with more shredded cheese, or a crumbly white cheese like queso fresco (sorta like a milder feta). Queso fresco and queso blanco don’t melt, but they get more delicious in the heat. Pop your enchiladas in the oven for 20-30 minutes, until everything is slightly browned on the top and bubbling around the edges.

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Before and after the oven.

Enchiladas are great for lots of things. Especially turning your entire kitchen red. They’re a traditional lenten food when filled with cheese and a hearty dinner when filled with meat. If you topped yours with queso fresco a little drizzle of table cream across the top when you plate them is going to make you want to lick your plate like some hungry cartoon bear. If you topped them with shredded cheese why not go all the way into decadence and top with a fried egg? You can serve them with rice and beans. Or scrambled eggs. Another great thing to serve with enchiladas is a steak. Something about the marbled, salty steak and the rich, deep flavor of chile go together so well that enchiladas and steak will replace thanksgiving dinner as you go-to fantasy meal. Cut off a piece of steak, spear a chunk of enchilada and drive them into your face.You’re not eating like a king, because they eat boring stuff. You’re eating like someone who scoffs at kings and rides raging stallions across the desert. You’re eating like someone who knows that sometimes to have something really good, you’ve got to really mess up your kitchen.

 

Fin De Semana! 8-8-14

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Huh. Before Bobby Flay and Chili’s made the whole thing in to a joke, it looks like southwestern cuisine was a real thing.

Wiz Khalifa followed in the footsteps of Johnny Cash, and got busted in El Paso with drugs. It’s ok Wiz, I had warrants in El Paso too. (Mine were for tickets though.)(They put your name in the paper once a year if you haven’t taken care of them too.)

How do you keep people in the far future away from the radioactive messes we’re burying across the southwest today? Turns out, there’s lot of ideas but maybe not any good ones.

What I’m Listening To

Mike Ethan Messick

Mike Ethan Messick writes songs you wish you could drive. That’s clumsy, but stick with me. You know how truck commercials always talk about how rugged, All-American and durable their trucks are? Like that. Just good, solid songs about real life that’ll get stuck in your head. In particular I like “Oldsmobile” and “Teaspoon Full Of Gravel.” Everyone says they sound like Robert Earl Keen, but Messick has the wry lyrics and anthemic sound to his songs that actually makes that true.

What I’m Drinking This Week

Dr. Peppers my wife forgot in the back of the fridge. They’re half frozen and they tickle your throat when you drink them. It almost hurts, but in a good way.

Fin De Semana! 6-27-14

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A teen on the Navajo Reservation (one of the most drop dead gorgeous places on earth) has invented an oven that runs off the one thing New Mexico has a TON of: the sun. Meanwhile, the wildfire sweeping the reservation is mostly contained for now.

Wildfires are a huge problem every summer out here in the west. This week leading up to Independence Day is always a good time to go over some basic fire prevention tips.  

On that note, a little trivia; only one person in the history of the U.S. has ever been successfully prosecuted by the Feds for starting a wildfire. His name: Johnny Cash.

Finally, something near and dear to me: regional burrito styles. Of course, the Juarense/El Paso style burrito is my favorite. It’s also allegedly the original burrito from which all other burritos sprung.

What I’m Listening To

This week I’m listening to Western FM, which is an internet radio station started up by Rodney Hayden as a home of sorts for his great podcast. It focuses on cowboy music and poetry without ever getting too cute or faux-folksy (fauxlksy?)  What it really sounds like is riding shotgun in my Dad’s truck. Who doesn’t like that? The iPhone app is free, although it hasn’t “officially” launched yet.

What I’m Drinking

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I stashed away a couple of  these from the last Shiner Family Reunion 12 pack I bought. The fruit of the prickly pear, a tuna in Spanish, has a sweet, medicinal taste, almost like cough syrup. It’s brewed in lager style beer that is corn sweet (like High Life or any other American beer made with corn) but not overbearingly so. Surprisingly, it works by balancing out all the sweet syrupy flavors with some hoppiness. I thought it would be a train wreck or an amusing novelty at best but I actually enjoyed drinking this more than, say…Ruby Redbird, which is made with Grapefruit. I’m biased towards liking this because I’m a fan of all things prickly pear, but if you can find one of these, it’s worth trying.

How to make ground beef tacos like a West Texas Grandma!

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(this recipe is slightly modified from the recipe my Grandma and all the other Grandmas I know used)

You’ll need:

2 lbs ground beef (go as lean as you can I like 97/3 when I can find it)

1 large carrot

1 large onion

2 medium russet potatoes

4 cups of water and a beef stock cube (or just the water)

a couple of teaspoons of olive oil

garlic powder, cumin, chile powder, salt and pepper.

 

Peel and dice the carrot and onion. Peel and cube the potatoes. If you want to be more authentic omit the carrot. Or not. My Grandma didn’t use carrots, but holy crap does it make this tastier. Sautee the onion and carrot in a dutch oven until the onion starts to go translucent. You’re gonna cook everything in this dutch oven, so don’t worry about screwing up the kitchen too bad. Add the beef and get it browning. Put your 4 cups of water on to boil with or without your little bullion cube.

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this guy

Once the meat starts to turn gray, add your potatoes and hit the whole mix with a little salt and a lot of black pepper. If you’ve got some Gebhardt’s chile powder, put a teaspoon of that in there, as well as a teaspoon of garlic powder and cumin each. (Or to taste. Some people don’t like cumin and you should stay away from them because they hate good things.) I use a lot of black pepper because that’s how everyone did it when I was growing up.

Ground-Cumin

 

I was in college before I discovered spices came in any other packaging.

Once the meat is good and browned and the potatoes are looking sweaty and happy, pour your boiling liquid into the pot and deglaze that pan. Add just enough liquid to barely cover the top of your meat and veggies. Stir around the bottom to loosen up anything that might have stuck to the bottom of your dutch oven. Bring to a boil and then lower to a simmer. Let the whole shebang simmer until almost all the liquid is gone. Taste and adjust your seasonings. You should have rich, meaty tasting beef held together by creamy potato chunks. If you added the carrot, you’ll notice how much more savory and meaty everything tastes. It tastes kinda like eating a pot roast in every bite. There’s a conundrum for you meat lovers, adding veggies makes meat taste more like meat.

From here, you’ve got a variety of options. You can fry some corn tortillas in a little bit of vegetable oil, and hold half the tortilla up with tongs (not your fingers, you’re going to need them for eating). Flip it over and let the exposed half of the tortilla fry a little. You should have a U-shaped tortilla. When both sides have little brown spots like freckles take them out and drain them on some paper towels. There, now you never have to buy those crappy store bought taco shells again. Seriously, don’t buy them. Ever. You can also just warm a corn tortilla up on a griddle if you want and eat soft tacos. If your corn tortillas are hard and untasty looking because they’ve been refrigerated run them under some warm water for a second before throwing them on your griddle. This taco meat is also good for burritos, or even as a filling in some red enchiladas (we’ll get there). Serve with rice and  yes, real by god pinto beans. Garnish with lettuce and diced tomatoes shredded yellow cheese or crumbled queso fresco and if you can make salsa do that or oh man, if you can get some good salsa from New Mexico where they don’t screw around with such things put some of that on there too. Serve with a cool drink. I like to drink ice cold beer with tacos. Try it, I hear it’s catching on. Your Grandma, I bet she wouldn’t begrudge you.

 

Fin De Semana! 5-23-14

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Maybe we’re all being too hard on Garth Brooks. Todd Snider thinks so. After reading his story about him, maybe you’ll agree. There have certainly been an increasing number of open letters to Garth in the last couple of years. Like it or not, there’s a lot of hope wrapped up in him and what his return might mean.

An interesting wrinkle in the ongoing drug wars in Juarez- Billboards in El Paso are now referencing the struggle right across the river.

I’m sure there’s something to the upcoming whiskeypocalypse, but when smaller distillers are the ones telling you to hoard bourbon, I find it a little suspect. I only say this because I can still get limes for my tacos.

What I’m Listening To:

Juan Cirerol. I have no idea how I was so late to the game on this guy. Juan does his thing so well it looks easy and makes you wonder why someone wasn’t doing it before. His mix of norteño and American folk is genius. Mixing the plonky guitar rhythms of the two neighboring countries into Cirerol has found a style that simultaneously feels new and familiar to sing his songs of druggy misadventure. Even without speaking Spanish his playful smartassedness comes through his delivery, finding a satisfying middle ground between Chalino Sanchez and Bob Dylan.

What I’m Drinking

I’m not one for clear liquors or sweet drinks. Imagine my surprise when my wife made mojitos with a bottle of the nice rum my in-laws brought from their home in  Puerto Rico. I’m sure it breaks all the rules, but she combines a 1/4 cup of simple syrup that she’s chilled in the fridge, then muddles exactly 11 mint leaves (she’s very serious about this number) with a pinch of sugar in the glass. Then she adds the simple syrup, fills the glass with ice, adds a 1/4 cup of white rum and the juice of one lime, stirs and tops it off with club soda. Like I said, this is the opposite of what I’d normally drink and I loved it. It’s great in the 90 degree evenings we’ve been having.

Fin De Semana! 5-17-14

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The sexism in bro country is a sword that cuts both ways. To continue the martial metaphor, yet another person takes up arms against it. For what it’s worth, I think the demographic it panders to has a pretty short attention span and oughta tire of it pretty soon. Whether I’m right, or if something worse takes it’s place remains to be seen.

Chipotle, a fast food place I will never, ever eat at because I can get better Mexican food cheaper pretty much anywhere where I live, has asked writers to contribute pieces to put on it’s packaging. Oddly enough, none are Latino. To be fair, most of the passages about food I’ve read by Latino authors are written so well, they’d over shadow anything a fast food place could throw together. (Plus, I think they know better than to ask Dagoberto Gilb what he thinks of their burritos.)

Finally, a happy piece about eating enchiladas in El Paso. L&J Cafe remains one of my favorite places to eat in El Paso.

What I’m Drinking This Week

Shiner White Wing. It’s a White Beer. Orange peel, coriander, the whole bit. I drank one with some barbecue a couple of nights ago. Tangy barbecue sauce + smoky sausage + sweet beer. It was pretty good. I don’t know what else to tell you. It’s hot out and white beers are refreshing in the summer.

 

I had the pleasure of catching Yuma Wray & Miss Shevaughn last night. They’re great live and just really, really nice folks. Here’s their video.